Tissue culture plants (also known as in-vitro plants or micropropagation plants) are plants that are produced through an advanced method of plant propagation. This technique allows growers to produce large numbers of identical and healthy plants from a small piece of plant in an efficient and controlled manner. It's almost as if the mother plant is cloned into small baby plants! All of this happens in laboratories under completely sterile conditions, which is also why it's very important to take special care of them in the beginning, since they have not yet been able to build up resistance to bacteria and are used to 100% humidity. Failure to take this into account in the beginning will almost certainly result in the death of your plant. But don't worry, once you get through the first few weeks you can treat your plant like any other baby plant!
There are several major advantages to tissue culture compared to normal plant propagation, which is why this process is also widely used in agriculture, for example.
Tissue culture plants are always disease-free due to the sterile cultivation and because a genetically good specimen is used for the process, it's easy to grow strong identical plants relatively quickly. Which is great for rare plants like the many with variegata that we offer! You'll never receive a plant from us that you're not sure will show variegation, as it's clearly visible in these babies! And did you know that more and more plants in plant shops are also grown from tissue culture? These have already been acclimatized and grown further by the grower, meaning you pay a large premium for them while not even knowing that you're buying tissue culture plants.
There are many interesting videos about the process on YouTube (we're big fans of Plants in Jars), but in the next tab we have briefly described the process for you.
Step 1: Selection of the starting material:
The process starts with the selection of a healthy piece of plant tissue, often a small piece of leaf, stem or root, from an adult (house) plant. Which part gives the best results varies per plant.- Step 2: Sterilization: The selected tissue is carefully sterilized to ensure that it is free of bacteria, fungi and other pathogens. This is crucial to ensure a successful breeding.
- Step 3: Grow on nutrient media: The sterilized tissue is placed on a special culture medium in a sterile culture environment. These nutrient media contain all the necessary nutrients, hormones and growth factors that the tissue needs to develop.
- Step 4: Growth and Development: Under controlled conditions, the tissue begins to divide and grow. This process takes several weeks to months.
- Step 5: Root Formation: The young plants are transferred to another medium that stimulates root formation. This is an important step to ensure that the plants can grow independently when they are transferred to potting soil. In this phase the plants are sent to us and you.
- Step 6: Acclimatization: The plants gradually become accustomed to the outdoor environment. This process, also called acclimatization, is crucial to ensure that the plants can survive well outside of sterile laboratory conditions. This is the process that you will carry out yourself with our tissue culture plants.
Acclimating tissue culture plants is a crucial step to ensure that the young plantlets, grown under sterile laboratory conditions, can successfully survive and thrive in a normal environment. Follow the step-by-step plan below to unpack your tissue culture plants and gradually acclimate them to their new environment.
- Getting used to environment: Place the plant (still in it's packaging) in the place where you ultimately want to place it, so that the plant can get used to the temperature and amount of light. We like to leave a plant for at least 24 hours, but shorter or longer is also possible.
- Workspace: Provide a clean workplace at room temperature and ensure that you do not work in direct sunlight.
- Materials:
– Jar(s) with substrate: Prepare trays or pots with a light, moisture- and air-permeable substrate. A mixture of 50/50 perlite and aquarium soil (small black balls, available in many garden centers as Flora Base Pro or Fluval Stratum) is our favourite. A combination of perlite and spagnum moss is also popular. There are of course more options, but we would like to experiment with these further before recommending them. It is advisable to have your substrate already moist (and clean, if necessary).
– Scissors or knife: To open up the packaging, make sure you've cleaned it beforehand
– Bowl with lukewarm water: for cleaning the plant. Optionally, additional containers for soaking.
– Optionally, if you want to be on the safe side:
– 70% Alcohol (or higher): For sterilizing your scissors, knife or tweezers
– Hydrogen peroxide 3% or fungicide: To kill possible bacteria or fungi.
– Rooting hormones: Both rooting powder and liquid hormones are suitable, but it's better not to combine them.
- Hygiene: Wash your hands before you start and after each step.
Open the bags with your clean scissors or knife and pour in some clean, lukewarm water. Gently move the bag back and forth a few times, this helps to remove as much gel as possible from the plant.
Remove the plant from the packaging and place it in your container with lukewarm water. Try to remove all gel from the plant as best you can, you'll mostly find it on the roots. Be careful while doing so, but don't worry too much if you break off leaves or roots,. Anything that breaks off easily probably wouldn't have survived acclimatization anyway. Leave your plant in the water until you are ready to plant it
Additional extra step: Once you have removed the gel you can soak the plant in a bowl of lukewarm water and a dash of hydrogen peroxide or fungicide, but nothing too strong. Let it soak for a few minutes.
Additional extra step: Once you have removed the gel (and possibly also performed the above step), you can soak the plant for a few minutes in a container with liquid rooting hormones and lukewarm water. Make the mix half as strong (at most) as the instructions on the package indicate. Try to avoid contact with the skin due to possible health effects that the hormones can cause.
Be aware: Removing the gel is the most important step, it's better to spend too much time on this than too little! A plant with too much gel left will 'suffocate' and will most likely die.
- Plant your plant in the prepared pots or trays. Make sure the roots are well covered and the plant is sturdy.
- Mist or water the plant and substrate lightly to keep the plant moist, as it's important that you do not let the plant dry out over the next few weeks.
- Humidity: Place a clear lid or plastic bag over the pots to create a mini greenhouse. This aids in maintaining high humidity, in which your plant can grow well.
- Ventilation: Provide small ventilation holes or open the lid/bag occasionally to allow air circulation and prevent mold formation.
- Light: For a consistent growing environment, we recommend placing your plant under a grow light. If you do not have this, place the plant in a place with sufficient indirect light, but absolutely not in full sun.
- Heat: Heat helps your plant make roots. If you have a grow or heat mat, your plant will definitely appreciate it!
Now the big wait begins... Because we recommend that you only continue with the next step until your plant has produced at least one new leaf and it has hardened sufficiently.
- Increase the time the lid or plastic bag is open daily. Start with a few minutes and build up slowly over a period of 3-4 weeks (1-2 weeks if your plant is placed in a greenhouse cabinet). Once your plant has become sufficiently accustomed to lower humidity, you can leave the covering off. It's important that the plant and it's substrate remains sufficiently moist, because plants need more moisture in drier air.
Be aware: When all the leaves become limp, this is a clear sign that the plant needs more humidity, and it is better to slow down the pace of acclimatization.
- Watering: Continue to water the plants regularly, but make sure your substrate is well-draining to prevent root rot.
- Fertilizing:After a few weeks you can start adding a light liquid fertilizer to stimulate growth. Do this at half strength in the beginning, to avoid fertilizer burn.
Continue to monitor your plant closely during the first few months. Watch for signs of stress, disease or pests and adjust care as necessary.